Friday, September 3rd, 2010

Eye Cream A-Z


An always-expanding glossary of common terms you will hear when shopping for eye creams.  If you are looking for the best eye cream for your eye area, familiarize yourself with the below terminology.

A

Acetyl Hexapeptide-3

Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 is commonly sold under the brand name, Argireline. It works fast to alleviate facial tension, thus leading to the relaxation of facial muscles that contribute to lines and wrinkles. Researchers have proven that acetyl hexapeptide-3 works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters released by the brain that tell these facial muscles to tense. The result is relaxed musculature and reduced wrinkles and lines. Acetyl Hexapeptide-3s effects are very similar to those of botox injections. But where the FDA only allows botox serum to be injected in limited areas of the face, acetyl hexapeptide-3 may be applied wherever lines and wrinkles appear. One recent published study showed a 30% reduction in wrinkle size after only 30 days of using acetyl hexapeptide-3.

Acai Berry

Acai Berry is one of the most renowned anti-aging supplements. It contains key amino acids and trace minerals that assist in peak muscle contraction and regeneration. Destructive effects to the skin, which cause the initial signs of aging are effectively slowed down with the application of an Acai Berry infused cream.

Acid mantel

Acid mantel is a barrier of oil and perspiration, created by the sweat and sebaceous glands of the dermis, that protects the body from infections. It can be stripped away by using harsh soaps thus disrupting the pH of the skin. Accordingly, it is very important for an eye cream to be sensitive to the skin’s pH balance, so as not to effect the acid mantel protection naturally afforded by the dermis.

Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera is a renowned ultra-moisturizer that is known to be highly effective as a skin hydrator.  It is particularly useful on fixing dry and damaged skin, especially around the eye area where ‘crows feet’ develop quickly with age. Aloe Vera is an essential ingredient in any anti-wrinkle cream.

Antioxidant

An antioxidant is an agent that inhibits oxidation, whereby neutralizing free radicals.  An example of a potent antioxidant effectively used in top skin care products is resveratrol.

Argireline

Argireline is the brand name for Acetyl Hexapeptide-3.  It is manufactured by Center Chem in Conneticut. It has been called by top skin care professionals, as the best needle-free alternative to botox. Argireline has been shown to drastically reduce wrinkle depth, particularly around the forehead and eye area.  It is found in many of the best-rated anti-aging products for this reason. While Argireline can be applied daily in cream form, it is completely discomfort-free.

Astringent

Astringent is a solution that removes oil from the skin. It is often used after a facial wash to remove any remaining traces of a cleanser.

B

Basal Layer

The basal layer is the lowermost layer of the epidermis. This layer provides replacement cells that travel upward and replenish the skin. Good eye creams stimulate the basal layer, thus allowing for faster and more effective skin rejuvenation. A good example of an eye cream with known high basal layer stimulation properties is Elite Cream, distributed by industry leaders KLSC in Florida.

Beeswax

Beeswax is a natural substance obtained from the honeycomb of the honeybee, as well as other Apis species. Both yellow beeswax and white beeswax are used as thickeners, emulsifiers or stiffening agents in various skin and eye creams.

Beet powder

Beet powder is made from beet root and is sometimes used in an eye cream, although research has proven it to be ineffective in reducing wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness around the eyes.

Benzaldehyde

This synthetic chemical is used as an artificial almond oil, and also as a preservative and solvent. It’s irritating to the eyes, skin and mucous membranes and should not be included in an eye cream, although it is found in quite a number of foreign creams, often not even noted on the packaging.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

BHAs are a unique class of acids, including salicylic acid, that are used primarily as exfoliants. They’re found in many over the counter acne and cosmetic products, such as moisturizers and sunscreens. They’re also used in chemical peels. The use of BHAs in eye creams is not recommended as the skin around the eye is very gentle and highly prone to burning. This is why this site only recommends eye cream products that are made in the USA in an FDA approved ISO 9002 certified laboratory.

C

Cold-expeller pressed oils

Cold-expeller oils are extracted from vegetables without heat. Most other vegetables oils, such as canola and corn oils, are heat extracted.  Often cheaper eye cream products, particularly ‘free trial offers’ are manufactured with cold-expeller pressed oils to combat dryness in the skin, in the absence of a more expensive ultra-moisturizer, like aloe vera or acai berry.

Collagen

Collagen is a major fibrous protein of the white fibers of connective tissue, cartilage and bone. Collagen has great tensile strength and it is responsible for the skins elasticity. The break down of collagen leads to the wrinkles associated with aging. An effective eye cream formula will revitalize collagen production in the skin, a process known as DNA rejuvenation. This has the effect of reversing the signs of aging.

Cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals is a very controversial skin care term. It refers to a skin treatment that supposedly provides added benefit beyond a regular cosmetic or moisturizing product. The FTC openly shuns the use of the word, as it is misleading to the consumer to imply that a non-prescription product has a drug quality to it beyond what a comparable over-the-counter product provides.  However, many companies, such as PerriconeMd.com and many others, use the moniker freely in marketing and company slogans.

Crows Feet

Crows feet are wrinkles extending from the outer corner of the eyes. They can be reduced or removed with a good eye cream that contains a proper pharmaceutical-grade blend of argireline and hyaluronic acid. Most eye creams, particularly the cheaper variety, can not properly deal with crows feet due to the low concentration of the necessary ingredients needed to combat the problem.

D

Dehydration

Dehydration is the excessive loss of water from the body or an organ or body part. Aloe vera is the most effective topical solution for dealing with dehydration. People who suffer from dry skin, which is a very common symptom of dehydration, must choose an eye cream that contains aloe vera.

Dermis

The dermis is the layer of skin below the epidermis. It contains nerves, blood vessels, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, and hair follicles. The dermis is responsible for the body’s heat regulation and it controls the pH (acid-base balance) of the skin. It is divided into 2 layers the papillary dermis and the reticular layer. Particularly around the eye area, the dermis is very sensitive, which is why it is essential to only use a recommended, non-abrasive eye cream.

E

Enzymes

Enzymes are food products or supplements that aid in digestion. Papaya contains the enzyme papain, and pineapple contains the enzyme bromelain. Both are commonly used as aids to the stomach to enhance digestion. These same enzymes, when used on the face in the form of a cream, “digest” or break down dead skin cells and other cellular waste. They clear out the gunk and leave a brightened complexion. Enzymes are not effective in an eye cream, due to the complexity and special nature of the skin around the eyes.

Epidermis

The epidemermis is the outermost (external) layer of the skin. The principle cell of the epidermis is the keratinocyte. The epidermis is subdivided into 5 layers; stratum germinativum, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum, and stratum corneum (outermost layer).

Exfoliant

An exfoliant works to break down and remove keratinized cells that naturally build up on the skin’s surface. Even skin functioning at peak performance and normal skin can benefit from an exfoliant. Exfoliants help restore a healthy, translucent glow. They are not recommend around the eye area as their use is potentially irritating. Avoid eye creams that claim to act as an exfoliant.

Eye Cream Reviews

Reading eye cream reviews will help you find the best eye cream for your situation.  Whether you are looking to treat eye wrinkles or dark circles under the eyes, reading eye cream reviews will help you see what experts and consumers alike say about their experience with the many eye creams on the market.

EyeLiss

Eyeliss is an anti aging eye cream ingredient designed to reduce dark circles and under-eye bags. The active ingredients: hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide VW, and lipopeptide Pal-GQRP has been shown to improve texture, elasticity and circulation as well as to decrease inflammatory phenomena on the under-eye skin.  It is used in some of the top eye creams simply because it makes you look less tired.

Eye Serum

An eye serum is a term used for an under-eye treatment that has confused many people.  For the record, an eye serum is the same thing as an eye cream.  Eye serum certainly sounds more advanced and “medical” when compared to an eye cream.  Many companies use the word serum instead of cream, but in most cases they are formulating an anti aging product that will attack the signs of aging under the eyes, which is essentially what an eye cream does.  Some will make the argument that a serum has a different viscosity level than a cream, but if they both make similar claims, there is no difference in buying an eye serum versus an eye cream and vice versa.

Eye Gel

Yet another term used in this industry for an under-eye application.  See the above example for “eye serum.”  The same logic applies for eye gels.

F

Fibroblasts

Fibroblasts are cells that produce collagen. Energizing the fibroblasts is an essential part of any anti-aging routine. A good eye cream will work at the DNA level to rejuvenate fibroblast growth in order to enhance collagen prduction. This will have the effect of replacing old skin with new younger looking skin.

Free Radicals

Free radicals are highly active chemicals in the body. They’re created from many metabolic processes and also from inflammation and sun damage. They contain one or more unpaired electrons and scavenge, or steal, electrons from other molecules, thus damaging those molecules. In terms of the skin around the eyes, free radicals can damage collagen and elastin.

G

GABA

GABA, a relatively new topical skin care supplement, is referred to by experts as the body’s natural tranquilizer.  It works fast to penetrate the sensitive skin around the eyes by relaxing the muscles.  This has the effect of creating less skin tension in order to instantly reduce wrinkling. The instant anti-wrinkle effect of the GABA application makes it a very desirable addition to any eye cream.

Glycerin

Glycerin (propane-1,2,3-triol); a trihydric alcohol. Glycerin is a colorless sweet-tasting viscous liquid. Widely distributed in all living organisms as a constituent of glycerides. Used in moisturizers due to its humectant and hygroscopic properties, which means it attracts and holds water to your skin.

H

Haloxyl

Haloxyl, also known as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, is the foremost catalyst for reducing puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. It is a peptide that works by encouraging proper circulation in the area around the eyes.  Clinical studies have demonstrated that Haloxyl actually reverses the fluid build up that naturally occurs when you sleep. Haloxyl also works to break down and flush out of the eye area the toxin-formed pigmented blood that causes dark circles around the eyes to form.

Hyaluronic Acid

One of the three essential ingredients in any premium eye cream, hyaluronic acid is the key to maintaining water substances in human skin. What occurs is that as a result of aging, natural hyaluronic acid concentration in the skin decreases at an increasing rate over time. As a result, the skins ability to maintain moisture is weakened, and it gives the appearance of being dry and rough. When hyaluronic acid is applied back to the skin, it penetrates the dermis, combines with water, and promotes micro circulation and nutrient absorption. It forms an air permeable layer, to keep the skin moist and smooth. Hyaluronic acid application in a topical eye cream leads to rapid skin rejuvenation. The results are a fast reduction in wrinkles around the eye area, particularly what is known as ‘crows feet’.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is an antioxidant and skin lightener that in high concentrations is a prescription-only topical medication. Hydroquinone  in low concentrations is used as an ingredient in some skin care products, but due to its chemical potency it is not recommended in an eye cream.

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the abnormal darkening of the skin that can follow inflammation. It is caused by higher amounts of melanin in a particular spot on the skin. It can also result from hormones and sun exposure. Hyperpigmentation can be treated around the eyes with an eye cream that contains Haloxyl.

I

Inflammation

Inflammation is the bodies natural reaction to injury or abnormal stimulation caused by a physical, chemical or biological agent. It can include heat, redness, swelling and pain due to the underlying efforts to remove agents causing the damage and to begin the repair and healing process. Inflammation is particularly prevalent and troublesome in the area of sensitive skin around the eye. Accordingly, it is important to use an eye cream that is free of irritants that can cause a negative adverse reaction which can cause inflammation.

J

Jojoba butter

Jojoba butter is obtained from the jojoba shrub which grows in the southwestern United States. This butter can be used in cosmetics as an emollient. However, its application in eye cream products has never been scientifically proven as beneficial in any way.

K

Keratin

Keratin is a scleroprotein which contains a relatively large amount. of sulfur. It is present largely in cuticular skin structures. It is found in the mature layers of the epidermis. An eye cream infused with haloxyl can be used to treat this condition.

L

Lotion

A lotion is a liquid suspension or dispersion intended for external application. Some lotions consist of finely powdered, insoluble solids held in more or less permanent suspension by suspending agents or surface-active agents, or both; others are oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by surface-active agents. Lotions are lighter than and tend to contain less oil than creams.

M

Moisturizer

A moisturizer is a cosmetic lotion or cream applied to the skin to help retain moisture and combat dryness. Aloe Vera is considered the best moisturizer and an essential component to any premium eye cream.

N

Noncomedogenic

Noncomedogenic is a type of eye cream that does not promote the formation of blackheads and whiteheads and won’t cause breakouts. Accordingly, comedogenic eye creams should be avoided.

Nutrient Dense

Nutrient dense is a term that refers to eye cream products that contain a high concentration of added vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. These nourish the skin and provide added protection from free radicals. The most potent antioxidants for an eye cream are acai berry and resveratrol.

O

Oxidation

Oxidation is a common chemical reaction caused by the combination of oxygen and another substance. It is an important cause of cosmetics deterioration and the reason why choosing an eye cream with high anti-oxidant properties is vital.

P

Photo Damage

Photo damage is a term that refers to skin damage from the sun. An eye cream containing aloe vera will work to repair photo damaged skin.

Q

Quillaya Bark

Quillaya bark is The dried inner bark of a South American tree (Quillaja saponaria) has been used by the Indians for many years as a natural skin care supplement. The latest research has shown that it contains absolutely no benefit for the skin.

R

Rejuvenation

Rejuvenation is the process of revitalizing collagen and fibronectin in the skin. An application of an eye cream containing argiriline is a particularly effective way to rejuvenate the skin around the eyes as it works directly at the DNA level to essentially replace old skin cells with new ones.

Resveratrol

Resveratrol is perhaps the most important anti-aging discovery of the this generation. Well publicized, with benefits documented in thousands of scientific journals, the world’s most powerful anti-oxidant has been recently added to some super-premium eye creams. However, as highly-concentrated topical resveratrol is extremely expensive, expect to pay well over $100 for a small bottle of resveratrol infused eye cream. Accordingly, it is worth every penny.

S

Salicylic acid

Salicyclic acid is an ingredient found in many over the counter acne products. It helps to exfoliate the outer layers of the skin. It is not a recommended ingredient for an eye cream as it can irritate the gentle skin around the eyes.

Subcutaneous layer

The subcutaneous layer is the fatty layer of tissue located under the dermis.

T

Topical therapy

An eye cream is an example of topical therapy, as is is applied onto the skin around the eyes.

Toner

A toner is a skin care product that in theory removes the remains of skin cleanser and water on the skin surface. It also works to moisturize the skin, clean out pores, balance the skin, and restore the right pH value. Toner also prepares the skin for coming preparations, similar to a primer which prepares the wall for paint. Toner should not be applied around the very sensitive eye area.

U

UV Protection

UV protection which protects against harmful electromagnetic rays beyond the violet end of the visible spectrum, can not be properly incorporated into any effective eye cream. Accordingly, it is recommended that eye cream users apply a uv protectant lotion on top of their favorite eye cream, after allowing 4-5 minutes for the initial cream application to be absorbed into the skin.

V

Vitamin A

Vitamin A, best known in skin care applications as Retinol, plays an important role in anti-aging skin care. It directly contributes to the resurfacing and rejuvenating of the skin, helping to impart a clearer, more vibrant complexion for all ages. However, while vitamin A is one of the most essential ingredients in a general wrinkle cream, it is not effective around the eye area and thus not recommended for inclusion in an eye cream.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an ascorbic acid who’s primary function is the manufacture of collagen. It is an important water-soluble antioxidant and critical for immune function. It is very susceptible to break down when exposed to air, which is why it is normally included in ester form when added to a skin care product or eye cream, thus allowing it to retain its efficacy much longer.

W

Wheat Germ Oil

Wheat germ oil is used in cheaper eye creams for its moisturizing properties. However, this oil from the embryo of the wheat kernel, is a far less effective moisturizer than aloe vera. Aloe vera is the moisturizer of choice in virtually all high-end eye cream products.

Wrinkles

Wrinkles around the corner of the eyes, also known as crow’s feet, are the most visible signs of age. An eye cream with argireline, GABA and hyaluronic acid works fast to remove wrinkles around the eyes by almost instantly smoothing the delicate skin while at the same time permanently reducing wrinkle depth.

X

Xylitol

Xylitol is a sugar that is derived from the cell walls of plants, especially straw, corncobs, oat hulls, cottonseed hulls and wood. Studies have indicated that xylitol consumption can increase skin thickness and collagen content in animals, although this has not been successfully tested on humans.

Y

Yarrow

Yarrow is a herb, occasionally found in skin care products as an astringent.  It is also been said to reduce itchiness when topically applied to the skin.

Z

Zinc

Zinc is a toxic chemical found primarily in cheap imported eye cream and skin care products. In general, due to foreign labelling restrictions, only buy eye cream products that are manufactured in the USA in an FDA approved laboratory.